Updated August 2025
Peat-based composts were the norm in the UK for many decades. However, growing concern over the environmental damage caused by peat extraction — from habitat loss to its impact on climate change — has led to a shift away from their use. A ban on peat in compost for home gardeners was originally due to be passed by the end of 2024, with professional use to follow in 2026. However, the most recent general election delayed the legislation, and at the time of writing, it has yet to be debated in Parliament.
Legislation aside, the horticultural industry is already moving decisively towards a peat-free future. The majority of composts now available in garden centres are peat-free, and most UK professional growers are trialling or fully using alternative growing media. While many European suppliers are still catching up, strong UK demand for peat-free plants is encouraging them to make the switch.
So, how do today’s peat-free composts compare to the familiar peat-based blends we once relied on?
What is peat-free compost made of?
Most peat-free composts are made up of a mixture of organic materials. This includes seed, ericaceous, general purpose and tree, shrub and rose composts.
- Wood Fibre: Easily tailored to suit different types of compost, this material will help to improve drainage
- Green waste: Local councils and some private contractors collect and compost garden and food waste. It has a high nutrient content and producers have to abide by industry standards for quality
- Composted Bark: usually pine bark. It is very stable and porous and can help keep composts loose and aerated
- Coir (coconut fibre): this waste product is mainly imported from Sri Lanka and India. It has excellent water holding properties whilst still allowing for good drainage. However, it does not hold on to nutrients well
- Sheep Wool: Wool increases water retention and acts as a source of slow-release nitrogen and other trace elements
- Bracken: This invasive plant can be sustainably harvested. It makes a great soil conditioner and is often used in ericaceous composts
Added extras: Some composts may contain added nutrients such as John Innes 2 and 3. These may be mineral fertilisers or granular fertilisers. Most companies keep their recipes secret so may just say ‘with added nutrition’ on their packaging. Some composts contain moisture retaining gels or granules and are useful for summer containers and hanging baskets. These composts will often be labelled as ‘Moisture Control’.skets.
The Responsible Sourcing Scheme
The horticultural industry has created a Responsible Sourcing Scheme for composts and soil mixes. It is similar idea to energy performance certificates, used for rental properties and white goods. It will help you check the environmental rating of a particular compost. The scheme is voluntary but members are now starting to show the logo on the front of their packaging. This logo indicates the manufacturer is an accredited member of the scheme, it does not indicate the compost’s rating. That information is on the back of the bag.
On a walk around the compost bays today about half of the products for sale showed the Accredited Member logo. However, when I turned the packaging over to find a rating, none of the packs showed one. Instead there was a QR code, which you can use to look up that particular product. As the scheme is new and becomes more widely known and used, manufacturers will print the logos and ratings on their packaging. Some products have not yet been assigned a rating, but I think it is encouraging that the industry is working towards giving gardeners the tools they need to make an informed decision.
How Do I Use Peat-Free Compost?
Peat-free compost contains different ingredients from traditional peat-based compost, so it needs to be handled a little differently.
We sometimes hear from customers who feel that peat-free compost isn’t as effective — often because their seedlings failed or their plants didn’t thrive. But after a quick chat, it usually becomes clear that they’re using the same methods they always have. The key thing to remember is that peat-free compost behaves differently, and to get the best results, a few simple adjustments are needed.
Each manufacturer uses its own blend of ingredients, which means not all peat-free composts are the same. One mix might retain more moisture; another might dry out more quickly. Learning how your chosen compost behaves will help you get the most from it — and keep your plants growing strong.
Here are some tips:
Choose the Right Compost for the Job: Peat-free composts often contain larger particles than peat-based ones, including visible fibres or small twigs. This chunkier texture can cause problems when sowing small seeds, which may fall between the gaps and struggle to make good contact with the compost — essential for successful germination.
For small seeds, always choose a fine-grade seed compost. This provides the close contact and even texture needed for healthy germination. Prepare your seed trays or pots, water the compost first, then sow your seeds and cover them to the depth stated on the packet using either more compost or fine vermiculite.
Larger seeds, such as peas and beans, can tolerate chunkier compost, especially when potting on. A multipurpose compost that’s been sieved to remove the roughest particles works well here.
Use ericaceous compost for acid-loving plants like acers, camellias, and rhododendrons when growing them in containers.
Multipurpose peat-free compost is ideal for bedding plants that will only stay in pots for one season.
Avoid using standard compost for mulching or soil improvement — it’s better to use homemade compost or specific soil conditioners, which are often manure-based and more cost-effective. Save bagged compost for pots and seed sowing, where it will really make a difference. Choose the Right Compost for the Job
Assess Moisture Levels: Peat-free compost often looks dry on the surface, even when it’s still damp underneath. It can form a dry, almost crusty layer, which can be misleading. Rather than watering based on surface appearance, check the moisture levels by gently pushing your finger down the side of the pot or by lifting it to gauge the weight. If the plant has established roots, you can also ease it out of the pot to inspect the rootball. These simple checks help avoid overwatering.
Seedlings that stay too wet are prone to ‘damping off’, a fungal issue that causes them to rot and collapse. To avoid this, always check below the surface before watering. For delicate seedlings, consider using a spray bottle to mist the compost rather than pouring water directly. This provides moisture without over-saturating the roots.
Feed Earlier: Peat-free compost doesn’t retain nutrients as well as peat-based compost, so plants may need feeding sooner. Unless the packaging states that a long-lasting fertiliser is included, it’s a good idea to start feeding about four weeks after sowing — or once the first true leaves appear. Use a half-strength liquid feed at first to avoid overwhelming young plants.
Making feeding part of your weekly routine helps keep plants healthy. ‘Feedy Friday’ is an easy way to remember! We recommend using a general seaweed feed to begin with, switching to a high-potash tomato feed once your plants start flowering or fruiting.
When planting up hanging baskets or larger plants that are going to stay in the pot, consider mixing in a controlled-release fertiliser. These slow-release granules supply nutrients over the season, giving your plants a steady source of food.
Don’t Panic About Mushrooms: Most peat-free composts include wood chip or wood fibre, which naturally encourages fungal activity — including the appearance of small mushrooms in pots or containers.
There’s no need for concern. These fungi are a normal part of the soil biome and won’t harm your plants. In fact, they’re a good sign that your compost is alive with microbial activity. If you’d prefer not to see them, simply pick them off and add them to your compost heap.
Combat Fungus gnats: Fungus gnats (also known as sciarid flies) can be a real nuisance indoors and can damage small seedlings. They love peat-free composts. You can try any or all of the following chemical-free methods.
A) Try a carnivorous plant
Place a sundew plant nearby; its sticky, dew-covered leaves attract, trap, and digest the tiny flies. Venus fly traps are less effective, as sciarid flies are usually too small to trigger their traps.
B) Use a biological control.
You can order biological controls online. A sciarid fly kit targets both sciarid larvae in the compost and the adult flies to break the cycle. These arrive by post and are safe for pets and people.
C) Cover the surface with grit
Add a layer of fine horticultural grit to the surface of your pots. This prevents adult gnats from reaching the compost to lay eggs. The product Lava Lite– No Gnats is very effective for this.
Mix It Up: Don’t be afraid to create your own custom mix. Combining different composts or adding ingredients like loam, sand, or grit can help you achieve the right texture and drainage for potting on. Mixing in leaf mould or home-made compost is also a great way to improve structure and boost microbial life.
However, avoid using home-made compost for seed sowing — it hasn’t been sterilised and may contain fungal spores or pests that could harm seedlings.
Try out a few different brands of bagged peat-free compost. Once you find one that performs well for your plants and growing style, it’s worth sticking with it — consistency can make a big difference to your results.
Make the Switch with Confidence
Changing to peat-free compost does require a few adjustments, but with the right techniques, you’ll soon see great results. Follow these tips to make the transition smoothly and keep your plants thriving.
Happy gardening!
Peat Bog near Glencoe Scotland
All information correct at time of publishing August 2025.
By our resident horticultural expert
